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Chapter 8. The Tools You Will Use

The principal tools required by every philatelist are simple and inexpensive. They consist of stamp tongs with which to handle your stamps, a perforation gauge and millimeter rule with which to measure the perforations on your stamps, a watermark detector to help you identify watermarks, and a supply of stamp hinges to attach your stamps to your album.

A satisfactory set of all four items, including a generous package of suitable stamp hinges, may be purchased from any stamp dealer or any place where stamps are sold for about one dollar. You can, if you wish, pay considerably more for fancy gadgets but for all practical purposes the "five and dime" type of tool will be eminently satisfactory. Many an erudite expert operates with such.

A secondary tool, of primary importance if your eyesight is not up to par, will be a good magnifying glass. Most philatelists carry one on their person wherever they go. An inexpensive one with a lens of 3 or 4 power will prove very satisfactory.

All of these tools should be provided in your beginner's outfit. Now let us see what each tool is for and how it shall be used.

Stamp Tongs

Stamp tongs require little instruction in use. Each of us will instinctively hold the tongs as they feel most comfortable. They are used to pick up and hold a stamp either for identification or to mount in the album. Tongs are used in place of fingers because with them it is much easier to pick up and handle a stamp and because they are far less likely to damage a stamp than would be the case when using fingers. At first the use of tongs may seem awkward but in almost no time at all you will find your stamp tongs the most necessary of all tools. Secure a pair that does not have too great a tension in the spring handle and use them on all occasions. Your stamp dealer will have an assortment from which you may chose a pair that feels right to you. A satisfactory pair should cost no more than twenty-five to fifty cents.

Stamp tongs.

THE PERFORATION GAUGE AND MILLIMETER RULE

This is a little gadget, often printed on paper or cardboard and sometimes on metal or plastic, that makes it possible for you to tell at a glance the gauge of the perforation of a stamp or to measure in millimeters the size of the stamp. There are many types available, all of which are satisfactory. The most common type is the kind that provides a series of dots or points within a given space; below each such line of dots or points the gauge of the perforation is indicated. Use the perforation gauge part of this instrument by sliding the stamp from one row of dots or points to the other until all of the teeth, or holes of the perforations, on the stamp coincide exactly with the dots or points on the gauge (see illustration). Use the millimeter part of the instrument as an ordinary ruler; only measure in millimeters instead of inches.

Perforation gauge. The stamp measured has a vertical perforation of 101/2.

The perforation gauge provides a means of identification of the various perforations used in the manufacture of postage stamps. These perforations range from tiny pin holes, sometimes actually made by a sewing machine, to quite large round holes. But, contrary to popular belief, the diameter of the hole does not determine the gauge of the perforation. All perforations are measured against the same standard throughout the world. This standard is a distance of 20 millimeters, and the number of holes provided within a distance of 20 millimeters is the "count" or, as we say, the "gauge" of the perforation. Hence, if there be 10 large holes spaced closely together within a distance of 20 millimeters, the gauge would be "10". And if there were 10 very small holes within the 20-millimeter distance spaced far apart from each other the gauge would still be "10".

Because many stamps of identical design on identical paper have been manufactured with different gauges of perforation and because such differences are often of great importance in determining the value of a given stamp, the perforation gauge is a very important instrument. However, it is unnecessary to know or to determine the gauge of perforation of every stamp in your collection. You will find use for the gauge only when identical stamps are separated from each other in your album or in the catalogue because of different perforations. This happens frequently with United States stamps in the early twentieth century issues when the Bureau of Printing and Engraving (where all United States adhesive postage stamps are now printed) was experimenting with various methods of perforation. Most all current United States postage stamps are now produced by machines that provide the standard "Perf. 11 x 10 1/2". (The horizontal top side of the stamp is always given first, followed by the right side, and then, if necessary, the bottom, when indicating compound perforations.)

For all but the specialist the trend is to ignore perforations on stamps as a means of differentiating them from each other but the practice still is strongly entrenched for United States issues. But, whatever the trend may be, the beginning collector should learn the use of the perforation gauge for it is often a useful means of distinguishing a spurious stamp from a genuine, it is an internationally accepted standard of measurement, and it is part and parcel of stamp lore.

In another chapter we discuss the various kinds of perforations and how they are made.

THE WATERMARK DETECTOR

Primarily as a protection against counterfeiting, many stamps are printed on paper watermarked with some sort of device. All adhesive stamps of the United States were printed on watermarked paper from 1895 to 1916, and all United States embossed envelopes are on watermarked paper up to the present day.

Watermark shows against black background of a watermark tray.

A watermark is merely a thinner area in the paper, which can be ssen by holding the paper before the light. A common example is an ordinary piece of "bond" paper on which may be seen, if held before a light, the manufacturer's name or trade-mark. How it gets there is explained in the chapter dealing with paper making. Before the stamps are printed thereon, the watermark can be easily seen by simply holding the paper in front of a light. But after the stamp has been printed it is no longer so easy to see the watermark. In fact it is often impossible to see it. Hence the watermark detector. This is a simple device usually consisting of a glass tray with a jet black bottom. To use it, place the stamp face down in the tray and pour a little carbon tetrachloride over the stamp. (Ordinary "Carbona" will do very well.) The liquid makes the paper of the stamp translucent and the black bottom of the tray will be seen through the thinner parts, i.e. the watermark, which is thus revealed. Carbon tetrachloride is recommended as it is noninflammable. Many collectors use ordinary benzine which serves the same purpose. Neither of these liquids will have any damaging effect upon the stamp or the gum of most stamps. Once the stamp has been subjected to either liquid, it should be placed on a clean piece of paper and in a few moments it will dry out completely. The liquid can be returned to the bottle for future use.

Since watermarks greatly affect the value of a given stamp, they are of the greatest importance. However, not all stamps are watermarked so it will be necessary to use the detector only on such stamps as your album or catalogue indicates may occur in the same design but with a different watermark or, perhaps, without any watermark at all.

THE STAMP HINGE

The stamp hinge is simply a small piece of thin, but tough, paper to which a special gum has been applied. Stamp hinges come in a variety of sizes and styles and are in almost universal use. They may be purchased at all stamp dealers and at most five-and-ten-cent stores. They usually come in packages of one thousand and range in cost from twenty to twenty-five cents. Today practically all stamp hinges are good and, if handled correctly, will not damage your stamps. When making a purchase select hinges that are described as "peelable" that is, the gum on the hinge has the property of being able to let go if the hinge is carefully peeled from the stamp. Some hinges have this property more than others but the basic factor in making any hinge peelable is the amount of moisture it receives when you apple it to the stamp the less moisture the better.

How to use a hinge: Fold hinge. Apply hinge to reverse side of stamp. Place stamp into album

The new hinge is flat and usually gummed on one side. It is prepared for use by folding it at about one third of its length. The short end is then moistened slightly and applied to the stamp so that the folded edge is just below the perforations at the top (or side for very tall stamps). Next the long end is moistened and with the tongs the stamp is placed in its proper position in the album. Again I caution you to use only a very small amount of moisture and apply this moisture only to the extreme ends of the hinge. If your stamp is properly mounted (as shown in the illustration) the stamp may be gently pulled toward you and then tipped up so the back may be inspected at any time.

It is not necessary, or desirable, to wet the whole hinge. Just slightly moisten the extreme ends of the hinge as shown in the illustration. The less moisture the better.

There is a type of stamp hinge that is gummed on opposite ends on opposite sides of the paper. Such hinges are not folded but are used flat. They come in dispensers and are preferred by many people.

While hinges have been the only method of mounting stamps available to the collector until recently, a new method is now known. Many collectors, especially of unused stamps, prefer a mounting that will not contact the gum on the reverse of their stamps. Three types are the most popular "Crystal Mount", "Visitrays", and "Protective Mounts". "Crystal Mounts" are long tubes of acetate with a gum strip along the top of the tube, it comes in 6 heights, the collector cuts it to suit his needs for length. It has the disadvantage of being open on both sides and stamps tend to slip out as the album pages are turned, Visitrays come in special sizes for the stamp, but require that the collector do the final cutting and folding of the mount. The mount has a black background and must be moistened for mounting in album. The protective mount comes completely setup, ready to use, in exact size for all U. S. stamps and many foreign stamps, it has a self sticking adhesive on it, hence is the easiest mount to use. You simply place your stamp in mount, remove protective covering from back of mount and place in your album space. Mounts give a striking appearance to your collection and protect your stamps from damage.

Stamp mounted in a protective mount.

The beginner, however, should mount his first stamps with the ordinary stamp hinge so as to become proficient in its use. By far the majority of collectors use the hinge even for the most expensive stamps. If you desire to remove a stamp from an album page once you have placed it in position, be sure to wait until the gum on the hinge has become thoroughly dry. Never attempt to remove a stamp as soon as you have mounted it. To do so would probably tear either your album page or your stamp. When dry, however, the stamp may be removed with ease.

Many advanced collectors first mount their stamps on a mat and then mount the mat in their album. This method allows the stamp to be removed as often as desired without damage for it is permanently mounted on the mat. Mats may be made from any stiff thin paper cut to the size of the stamp to be mounted.

However, such tricks, while good to know and of possible use to you when you decide to build an advanced and important collection, should not be attempted at the beginning stage. Remember you are now undergoing your basic training. After graduation will be time to consider a serious collection, a matter discussed in a later chapter.

THE MAGNIFYING GLASS

A magnifier with handle.

This instrument is to help you see better and its proper use needs no explanation. There are innumerable varieties in all price ranges available at most stamp dealers. Many fold and may be carried in your pocket; others have straight handles; while still others have permanent mounts that stand unassisted on any flat surface. Several of the latter are provided with an electric light bulb which illuminates the subject while you examine it. In fact there is almost no limit to the complex development of these instruments. Witness the complicated machine that enlarges and projects an image of the stamp upon a viewing screen. The beginner should select a simple, inexpensive glass that will provide reasonable magnification. Your stamp dealer can advise you.

A pocket magnifier. A desk magnifier permitting free use of both hands.

A battery-illuminated magnifier for close examination of detail.

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